Senior General Than Shwe,Are you Ready?
That
 day in Naypyidaw I was somewhere not that far from the army barracks 
there. Only thing I know was I was in some part known as Upper Office of
 the War Office in Naypyidaw. I didn’t know which part exactly though.
At
 far distance the grey peaks and troughs of Pago-Yoma ranges were 
clearly visible. There were bamboo bushes and Ingyin grooves all over 
the deep forest where I was. And the War Office’s buildings and staff 
barracks were scattered around in small groups. Between the buildings 
were only electricity and communication poles and the connecting cables.
Where do you Live SG?
Well
 known as the great-army-chief (tat-choke-kyi) our Senior General is 
still working and the building where his office is known as the 
building-one (ah-saung-tit). But the non-descript building I was in now 
could not possibly be that building one.
All
 the office buildings inside the War Office are neatly-built grand 
buildings allocated for various army departments and the respective 
generals who are the directors of the departments.
|  | 
| Than Shwe | 
SG
 Than Shwe’s house was supposed to be well away from his office as his 
house was at the upstream end of Yezin Dam roughly at the north-eastern 
part of this massive War Office compound. 
Neatly
 and systematically positioned in the whole War Office are the guard 
stations for perimeter security and internal security, the specialized 
office buildings for departmental head brigadier generals, departmental 
director major generals, and BSO (Bureau of Special Operations) chief 
lieutenant generals, the estate of grand houses for the generals, the 
living quarters and barracks for office-staff soldiers, the buildings 
for special security, telecommunications, and transportation 
departments.
Without
 really meaning it right now I was deep in the vast War Office. And I 
knew here could be neither the SG’s office nor his house. The building 
did not appear to be an important one. It was more or less an ordinary 
army barracks but the building was strangely quiet. Here could be the 
place where the SG took a rest away from the offices for peace and 
quiet, I wondered as I was wandering nervously around the strange place.
Inside War Office
|  | 
| War Office Complex at Naypyidaw. | 
Actually
 I was in the War Office to accompany a visiting army officer who was 
also a close friend and unexpectedly he had brought me along here. At 
the main gate the army guards searched and interrogated us thoroughly. 
After that everything was smooth and easy once we were inside. 
Every
 visitor to the War Office has to register as a visitor and go through 
tight security procedure. The male civilian visitors are to change into a
 standard Myanmar male dress of tight-pone (the Myanmar traditional 
jacket) and sarong if they are wearing anything else.
I
 had been to the War Office once or twice before for official business. 
But this time was not a business visit. I was just accompanying my 
friend for no serious reason at all. I didn’t have a camera with me and 
so I couldn’t take any photos as my record of this visit. But I had a 
very strong desire to take photos of the inside of this mysterious War 
Office.
Normally
 the only civilian outsiders who could come in here were the 
construction workers from the ongoing projects inside the compound, 
various merchants and traders, relatives of the generals, and the 
well-connected businessmen. For someone like me who didn’t really have a
 valid reason it was extremely dangerous to be here in this warlike 
compound.
So
 far I was lucky as there were not many soldiers and officers here in 
this building. But the building next door had too many of them as I 
could clearly see them really busy working. They wouldn’t even take 
notice of me. 
Or
 they just wouldn’t notice of a stranger once he or she is inside the 
compound after being thoroughly checked at the main gate. I was just 
watching and studying anyone coming into my sight as if my life depended
 on it.
I
 then thought it would be nice since I was already inside the War Office
 if they let me see the SG Than Shwe and speak to him. Then I thought I 
could be in shit if he asked me who I was and what business I was here 
for. I wouldn’t know what to say back to him as I didn’t have a reason 
at all.
I
 could also be in shit if I replied to him that I just felt like talking
 to him. Not just me but my friend the army officer who brought me along
 with good faith could also be in serious shit too. Maybe I shouldn’t 
meet the SG or even see him accidentally. And I prayed quietly to Lord 
Buddha that I didn’t accidentally run into any other well-known generals
 here.
And
 my bloody officer friend had suddenly disappeared leaving me alone in 
the building. After sitting there for a while I felt stressed out and 
bore. So I looked outside and the surroundings seemed peaceful and okay 
to go out for a stretch.
|  | 
| In war-dance | 
I
 immediately thought this place could be a nice and quiet place to live 
if all the soldiers and officers were not here for the War Office. I 
didn’t stay there long and came back to the building I just left. There 
behind the building I found a small building which appeared to be a very
 special abode. I was curious and so I went closer to scrutinize.
Once nearly there I immediately realized I was in serious shit.
Accidentally Meeting the Old Soldier
Standing
 guard at the door was an army colonel. Few other army officers were 
there too. They appeared to be acting really nervous and seriously alert
 as if a very important VIP was inside the building. I had to turn 
around and go away from this place, I warned myself. But it was too 
late.
The
 guard Colonel had seen me and he called out and asked me to approach. I
 had no choice but to go there and once I was there he checked me out 
thoroughly and then asked me why I was there. So I told him the truth 
for why I was there.
The
 army Colonel didn’t say much after that. Then he surprised me by asking
 me if I wanted to meet the Senior General who was resting inside. It 
was unbelievable that I just couldn’t answer back immediately. Then I 
told him I hadn’t a valid reason to see the SG.
He
 just told me to go inside. Maybe he thought I was someone important 
enough for his SG. So I didn’t say a word and just went inside cool and 
calm. And there in the room was the Senior General himself standing near
 an easy chair. He was talking to the officers when I interrupted him. 
He was the real Senior General. Not a double I checked him out thoroughly.
|  | 
| In war-dance | 
He
 wasn’t in his usual army uniform. He wore a short sleeve cotton shirt 
and large-chequered cotton lon-gyi (sarong). He didn’t look like the 
most powerful dictator of Myanmar at all but just an ordinary local elder.
 His stare at me wasn’t that strong at all. They made me at ease though.
He
 looked at me and then sat down into the easy chair nearby. I just stood
 there unable to say or do anything. He then asked me softly what I did 
for a living. I vaguely answered that I worked for a company. 
|  | 
| Min Aung Hlaing, Shwe Mann and Senior General | 
It
 shook me to the bone while thinking about the possible danger I was 
facing here. But I managed to keep my cool as whatever I did wouldn’t 
matter anymore from that point. As the SG I wasn’t anyone interesting 
enough for him and what he had to do was just give a nod to one of his 
officers and I would disappear out of his sight probably forever.
Only
 after a while of awkward silence a colonel standing near him sort of 
waved me out and I just slowly backed out from there. I didn’t dare turn
 my back on him. I was worrying the rest of the day of what would happen
 to me later. But nothing really happened except an officer from the War
 Office drove me back all the way to nearby Pyinmanar town that evening.
Benefits of Meeting the Old Soldier
From
 that accidental encounter I was given a permission to visit the War 
Office regularly  every month. But not just anytime anywhere I wanted. 
Only when I had a valid reason to visit the War Office and sometimes 
just to see the SG himself.
How
 and why I did get into such a difficult and dangerous situation I 
couldn’t even figure it out. I didn’t tell anyone about my precarious 
situation also as I didn’t dare telling anyone. What I figured out was 
if I told anyone and if that person believed me then I could be in 
danger. But if he or she didn’t believe me then I would be a laughing 
stock. So I just kept my mouth shut.
After
 that I’d been inside the War Office regularly once or twice every 
month. My trips were neither clandestine nor openly. Was it good or bad 
for me I didn’t really know? Maybe it was the Senior General’s cunning 
plan to use me when or if he needed me for their advantage, I didn’t 
really know? It wasn’t really a direct contact with the SG or mine 
wasn’t even an important job. They were just letting me easily enter and
 exit the very important War Office.
I
 didn’t really know what were their benefits in giving me a direct 
access to the SG from their point of view. But from my side I was so 
pleased that I could get some interesting news and information direct 
from the War Office by having an easy access.
I
 was even thinking that one day I would have a chance to interview SG 
Than Shwe if I was given an opportunity. Then I could be able to ask him
 whatever I would want to know from him, I dreamed.
At
 that time I was working as a journalist for our journal’s branch office
 at Naypyidaw. Even though I could not write down as the current news 
whatever I knew on the pages of the journal due to the difficult 
political situations back then I still was finding out a lot about that 
period, about Naypyidaw, about the government and the military in 
general and especially about some senior army officers and the secretive
 War Office in particular.
I’d
 learned to relate well with the army officers without fearing them like
 before. Only one important thing during that period was that I had to 
control myself not to tell others what I  did know. As a natural born 
journalist I am quite curious and always trying to ask people what I 
want to know. And I would like to tell others what I knew too. During my
 War Office period I had to control myself really hard to suppress that 
inherent character of mine.
(Direct translation of Aung Shin’s article from his Blog “A Journalist from Myanmar”.)
(Direct translation of Aung Shin’s article from his Blog “A Journalist from Myanmar”.)

 
 
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